Riesling is a classic example of the stunning wines that come from Alsace, France
Riesling is perhaps one of the most overlooked and underappreciated grape varieties. For a long time, it was wrongly perceived to be a low quality wine of teeth-rotting sweetness from Germany and sadly this shadow still looms, but is gradually being eradicated as wine drinkers become more adventurous and willing to try new things. This damaging reputation couldn’t be further from the truth, although while Riesling can and does make wines of exceptional sweetness (both late harvest and botrytized) it also produces extraordinary dry wines. Many regions in the world produce outstanding wines from this grape, but those from Alsace are some of the very best.
The Vineyards of Alsace
There are 15,000 hectares of vineyards in Alsace and two Appellation Controllee regions: Alsace and Alsace Grand Cru. There are only seven grape varieties that can be used in wine from the Alsace AC: Riesling, Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir & Pinot Blanc. Riesling is considered the most ‘noble’ of these varieties. 20% of all French white wine comes from Alsace which is an incredible amount considering how much Chardonnay is grown in Burgundy and elsewhere.
Riesling is one grape variety that is very rarely blended with other grapes and hardly ever sees time in oak, simply because it is best when allowed to exhibit its purity of fruit and individuality of the soil in which it was grown. The wines from this variety have the ability to age for decades which is extremely unusual for white wines, most of which are best drunk as young as possible. Some of the descriptors for this variety are ‘stone fruits (peach, apricot), steely and floral’.
Wines to Seek Out
There are many producers in Alsace and one would think the competition for the world’s attention would be fierce, but that is not the case. The families of some of the best known names of the region, Hugel, Trimbach and Beyer are all good friends and work together to promote Alsace and the product of their passion.
The Hugel Riesling Jubilee 2004 is a stunning wine and displays the care with which it is made. Over half of the grapes came from a Grand Cru vineyard (Shoenenbourg), and are all harvested by hands and pressed very gently. This wine scored 93 points in the Wine Spectator. With a nose of blossoms and anise and a plate of fruit explosions and crisp acidity, it needs another 3-5 years to reach its full potential.
From Trimbach look for the Riesling Frederik Emile 2001, a wine with great depth of flavor, dry and fruity that will improve with time and can age for another 20 years. There are 528 restaurants in France with at least one Michelin star award, 26 of which have three stars and the Frederik Emile Riesling is on the list in all 26!
Leon Beyer, with his son Marc and grandson Yann, are traditionalist in their approach to wine – let the grapes and soil speak and the wine makes itself. The Riesling Comtes d’Eguisheim is only made is exceptional vintages of which 2002 was one. Aromas of mint and peach are evident on a palate that is rich and ripe and yet still fresh. This is another example that will age 10-20 years.
